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Carmenère: Lost but now found - By Jeff Anderson
Like a lost child that has finally been found and now with great joy received and embraced, so is the story of carmenère. This lost Bordeaux grape is credited with establishing the reputations of some of the Medocs best estates along with cabernet franc. The reason for its disappearance in Bordeaux after phylloxera was that it ripened later and was susceptible to coulure. French growers at this time in history wanted varieties that ripened consistently and carmenère was not one. During the 1850's carmenère was brought to Chile along with other Bordeaux varieties like merlot. It disappeared into the field blends because it looked similar to merlot. The only real physical difference is that carmenère leaves are red underneath while merlots are white underneath and longer. It was only in the 1990's that French ampelographist Jean Michel Bourisiquot recognized it was carmenère and DNA profiling confirmed his find. In 1998 carmenère was officially recognized as a distinct variety by the Chilean Department of Agriculture. This unique grape variety ripens after merlot and has a dislike of water in the early part of the growing season and at harvest time. Carmenère also has a tendency to get high sugar levels before the tannins are ripe. Growers tend to believe that carmenère vines under eight years old can give vegetal-tasting wines. In Chile the climate is suitable for carmenère. The long hours of sunlight with long hang time is what the carmenère enjoys. Even if you have to wait until May for carmenere to ripen, in Chile this is not a problem. The great thing about this varietal is that it combines some of the best qualities of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Carmenère is deep in color with a nose of black fruits, spice and sometimes green peppers. It’s soft and round in the mouth with a velvety texture. Flavors of plum and blackberry with coffee, grilled meats, celery and soy sauce create an enticing wine. Some leading authorities and wineries in Chile are starting to recognize carmenère’s potential as the nation’s signature grape. Some of the areas it’s grown are Valle Central, Maipo Valley, Rapel Valley and Colchagua Valley. Northern Italy also has some carmenère planted, but is widely mistaken as cabernet franc. Some reliable Chilean producers of carmenère are: Veramonte, Calina, Concha y Toro, Carmen, Casa Lapostolle, Santa Rita, Louis Felipe Edwards, MontGras, Bisquertt and Almaviva. Carmenère is a very approachable wine that pairs well with a wide variety of foods. Try it with grilled pork, smoked turkey, cheddar cheeses, grilled steak or even that favorite burger.
Featured Wine(s) of the Month
Calina Carmenere Reg $9.99 Sale $7.99
Try one of our best selling carmeneres. The Calina is produced by Kendall-Jackson from California. Aromas of dark plums and bell pepper followed up by juicy berry flavors are sure to leave a smile on your face.
Carmen Carmenere Reg $7.99 Sale $6.39
Vina Carmen is the oldest of Chilean wine houses, having been established in 1850. To this day the wines from Carmen are some of the best values to be found.
New to Westside Liquor and only at Westside Liquor are the Pinot Noirs of Willakenzie Estates from the Willamette Valley.
Year in, year out Oregon Pinot Noirs are regarded as some of the best in the world and it is because of producers such as Willakenzie. Willakenzie Estates is an icon of tradition utilizing a gravity flow winery. Gravity flow wineries use the weight of the grapes to crush themselves and move their juices naturally through fermentation to aging. This is a tried a true method having been used for over 500 year in Burgundy, France. Willakenzie also is a believer in natural wine production and sustainable vineyard practices. In English, Willakenzie is an organic producer making wines without chemicals, pesticides and/or insecticides. Come in and try these beautiful wines.
2002 Willakenzie Estates Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
Reg $24.99 Sale $19.99 - Fresh red and black fruits, with suggestions of cherries and currants, enhanced by floral tones and a hint of earthiness and spice. Ripe and juicy, framed by good acidity and round, well-integrated tannins. This is a wonderfully approachable wine and will be a great companion for a wide variety of foods.
2001 Willakenzie Estates Willamette Valley ‘Aliette’ Pinot Noir
Reg $36.99 Sale $29.59 – 91 pts Wine Spectator, 89 pts Wine&Spirits
Complex in fruit and earth notes, the 2001 Aliette showcases the Willakenzie terroir and floral attributes of Pinot Noir. The nose is clear and lifted, and offers hints of citrus, herbs and vanilla, with a layer of red fruit. In the mouth, juicy pomegranate and red currants usher in nuances of light oak and toast.
2001 Willakenzie Estates Willamette Valley ‘Pierre Leon’ Pinot Noir
Reg $36.99 Sale $29.59 – 92 pts Wine&Spirits, 91 pts Wine Spectator
The nose presents luscious raspberry, red fruit and floral tones characteristic of Pinot Noir, with a hints of chocolate, blackberry and spice. This touch of spice carries into the mouth and develops into nuances of ginger, anise and vanilla. Velvety on approach, this Pinot is round in mouth feel.
Tasting reviews provided by Willakenzie Estates.
Newsletter brought to you by Mike Casey.
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